on Palermo, one of Buenos Aires most traditional and fancy
neighbourhoods. Feel at home in Palermo. Dance, dine and
shop along its cobble stone streets Buenos Aires used to
be a wonderful city.
The neighborhood of Palermois bounded, in accordance with
article 1 of By-law No. 26,607, Municipal Bulletin No. 14,288,
published on May 4, 1972, by: La Pampa, Pres. Figueroa Alcorta
Avenue, Valentín Alsina Avenue, Zabala, Cabildo Avenue,
Jorge Newbery, Cramer, Dorrego Avenue, Córdoba Avenue,
Mario Bravo, Coronel Díaz Avenue, Gral. Las Heras
Avenue, Tagle, the Gral. Bartolomé Mitre railroad
tracks, Jerónimo Salguero Avenue, Rafael Obligado
The origin and the reason for the name Palermo given to
the neighborhood isnt quite settled. While some ask
themselves whether it bears any relation to the Italian
city, the possible origins of the name can be sought with
Don Juan Domínguez Palermo, who in the early
seventeenth century was the owner of the lands. As places
were very commonly named after the churches there or after
the saints who were adored, other neighbors hold that the
neighborhood was actually called that way because there
was an oratory where an image of St. Benito of Palermo was
venerated, so that the faithful used to say they were going
to see Palermo.
Undoubtedly, this was the neighborhood of the Restorer of
the Law, Don Juan Manuel de Rosas. Initially, he
was the owner of a greater part of these grounds (some 540
city blocks). It was in 1836 that he became the privileged
owner of these beautiful grounds, where he decided to build
his official residence on what are todays Libertador
and Sarmiento Avenues.
But history has its ups and downs and after his defeat on
February 3, 1852, in Caseros, Justo José de Urquiza,
the victorious general, occupied the residence, which would
later become the headquarters of the School of Arts and
Trades, of the Military College and of the Naval College.
In 1889 the Restorers house was entirely demolished
to give more air to the park created by Sarmiento, an old
political enemy of Rosas. In what used to be the lands of
the man who had been governor of Buenos Aires for several
decades, the Tres de Febrero park (thus called in commemoration
of the date of the battle of Caseros) was inaugurated on
November 11, 1875.
This is today the site of the great breathing space in Buenos
Aires, with 740 acres between Del Libertador Avenue, Salguero,
Rafael Obligado Avenue and Pampa. There are found the marvelous
lakes and their green spaces, where, every September 21,
students gather to celebrate their day, while families take
advantage of the spot to take walks along the lovely grounds
during the rest of the year.
For many years Palermo boasted of the food carts along the
riverside Avenue. There one now finds major restaurants
with a beautiful view of the river, where Buenos Aires residents
and tourists enjoy pleasant evenings and Argentinas
good beef. Also in Palermo is the Spaniards Monument,
the real name of which is Magna Charta and the Four Regions
of Argentina. It is the work of the sculptor Agustín
Querol y Subirats and it is given its common name because
it was a donation of the Spanish community. It is located
on Sarmiento and Del Libertador Avenues. Its materials are
bronze and marble, with the final detail of the image that
represents the Republic.
Palermo Chico is the site of the so-called Barrio Parque,
a residential and extremely beautiful spot. Geographically
it is located on Figueroa Alcorta Avenue, between Tagle
and San Martín de Tours. There one can see large
hotels and very well-appointed two- and three-story town
Also in Palermo we find the Museum of Decorative Art, which
operates in what used to be the Errázuri Palace,
a prime example of the Bourbon architecture that influenced
a greater part of the majestic buildings in the Buenos Aires
of the early twentieth century. It can be seen at Del Libertador
Avenue and Pereyra Lucena. At the José Hernández
Museum of Argentine Subjects Del Libertador Avenue
No. 2373 one can see all the collections pertaining
to our traditions, including all translations of Martín
The oldest part of Palermo is known, precisely, as Palermo
Viejo and Soho (old Palermo) and it ranges from the rear
of Plaza Italia toward the southeast. Its beginnings were
as a lower-class outskirt, worthy of tango lyrics and of
the pen of writers like Evaristo Carriego and Jorge Luis
Within Palermo we likewise find a beautiful place, in the
area next to the Basílica del Espíritu Santo
or La Guadalupe, which was designed by the architect
Juan Beckeert and is built with black marble originally
from the old Vienna opera house itself. The floor tiles
are German, the stained glass is French, and the remainder
of the marble and wood is high-quality Argentine material.
Other frequently visited parts of Palermo include the Botanical
Garden on Santa Fe and Las Heras Avenues. It has over 17
acres of greenery right in the city and its inventory lists
more than 7,000 species. Facing it, we find the Zoological
Garden, now known as the Buenos Aires Zoo, on Sarmiento
and Las Heras Avenues. It was created at the initiative
of President Sarmiento. Since being turned over to private
hands on a concession basis, this legendary city zoo has
recovered its past brilliance with professional care for
the specimens inhabiting it. Among the very special sights
that can be seen are the white tigers, of which there are
fewer than 200 specimens in the world. In addition to the
impressive array and variety of species that live in spots
that recreate their natural habitats, the Buenos Aires Zoo
also offers specially designed spaces like the bears
gothic pavilion; the French palace, with its slate roof,
that houses the lions, or the 10,000-square-foot reproduction
of a Bombay temple which is, obviously, where diverse Indian
At one of the most important locations in the city of Buenos
Aires, on Sarmiento and Santa Fe Avenues, there rises the
legendary Rural Society. Following the signing of the title
deed to the lands where the Rural Society is located, the
organization undertook an ambitious building project, which
has allowed the staging of diverse contests and exhibitions.
To such an extent, that the most recent edition of the Book
Fair was held in its premises. However, the most famous
offering of the Rural Society is the countrys cattle
show. It is usually held in the month of July or August
and is visited by people from around the country and abroad.
The best of the countryside converges on this spot where
awards are conferred on the champions of the Argentine farmlands.
Where life is a tango
Buenos Aires is a strollable, cosmopolitan city, where the
dollar goes far and the sultry dance is everywhere. Hernán,
our taxi driver in Buenos Aires one night after a dinner
flowing with Malbec, offered a resonant assessment of his
"There are two things I love," he said, looking
at us in his rearview mirror. "First, the weather.
Second, it doesn't matter where you come from."
I can't agree with the former. We expected summer warmth
during a February trip to the Southern Hemisphere, but it
rained most of the seven days my fiancee and I spent in
But the truth of the latter point - Buenos Aires welcomed
us, like it seems to welcome all newcomers - wiped out any
chill and left only pleasant memories of my new favorite
The most cosmopolitan of Latin American capitals, Buenos
Aires oozes beauty - from its European-infused architecture
to its soaring monuments to its stunningly good-looking
inhabitants, who call themselves porteños, to the
passion and luster of the tango. I did double-takes everywhere,
at animate and inanimate objects alike.
It also is a city of perpetual reinvention - navigated by
the Portuguese, settled by the Spanish, attacked by the
British and influenced by the Americans.
The reinvention continues now. After emerging from a financial
crash in 2001 in which the national currency lost 75 percent
of its value, Argentina and its capital city are clawing
The country's tourism ministry has embarked on an ambitious
pitch for visitors, touting Argentina as an attractive alternative
to Europe - offering urban sophistication at a much lower
price. The nation is stable, but the peso is weak - affording
a luxurious vacation for a price sure to shock a New Yorker.
(Last week, the dollar was worth 2.9 pesos.)
Buenos Aires is now rife with chatter in several languages,
and daily nonstop flights from JFK are crowded. We encountered
travelers from Germany and various spots in Latin America.
Thankfully, we found that in a region of more than 12 million
people, there are enough places to avoid touristy klatches.
Part of that can be traced to our decision to rent an apartment,
even though visitors seeking a comfortable hotel will find
many that don't cost much. Our one-bedroom flat in residential
Recoleta totaled $245 for the week and was cozy - deceptively
so, considering how large it looked in a picture online.
The neighborhood, about a 20- minute walk from downtown,
is home to upwardly mobile professionals and families as
well as cafes and bistros and Parque Las Heras, a park famous
for its dog walkers.
A strollable city
We got our exercise through marathon strolls around Buenos
Aires, an eminently walkable city, which, like those in
Europe, is clearly divided - in this case by wide avenidas,
and smaller calles.
Neighborhoods aren't clearly marked but can be distinguished
by differences in architecture - soaring towers give way
to quiet, residential blocks, which in turn give way to
Still, everywhere a visitor turns are hints of Europe:
a clock tower replicating Big Ben, a cobblestone street
out of Sicily, an apartment building beckoning Paris.
The downsides are a paucity of street signs, especially
in neighborhoods outside of the downtown, and a glut of
dog poo. Picking up after pets seems to be lost on most
Our first real walk, on a Sunday morning, took us to Palermo
Viejo and Soho, Old Palermo, now the new "in"
neighborhood, comprised of what the locals call Palermo
SoHo and Palermo Hollywood.
The area is rife with funky clothing stores and their wafer-thin
patrons. Despite the influx of the young and the rich, the
Old World lingers at Plaza Palermo Viejo and Soho, lined
with cafes and speckled with artists and their wares.
Over brunch, we eavesdropped on old men chatting, and watched
a peddler selling hunks of cheese and salami by the kilo
to passersby. Picture a quainter version of a hot dog vendor.
We took in more of traditional Argentina later that sweaty
evening at the Feria de Mataderos, an outdoor market and
urban rodeo that's open December through March on the outskirts
of the city, an hour by bus from downtown. We sauntered
among stalls of gaucho (Argentine cowboy) clothing amid
the sultry strains of tango music. Later, we marveled like
awestruck kids as gauchos raced their steeds at full gallop
down a roped-off city street.
We stayed closer to downtown the following days, taking
in historical Buenos Aires and its abundant venues for art,
shopping and culture. Our first stop was the Cementerio
de la Recoleta, a vast necropolis that houses the remains
of the city's richest - who, even in death, seem to have
continued their opulent lifestyle.
Eva's burial site
The remains of several ex-presidents and business leaders
lie in marble mausoleums, all sleeping eternally in varnished
coffins behind locked glass doors. You can take a peek into
many of the crypts and find faded photographs, wilting flowers
and generous tributes from their families, friends and lackeys.
This is where the populist leader Eva Perón -
"Evita" - was laid to rest after her death
in 1952 (and after her body was finally returned following
an epic body-snatching). There are no signs to her final
resting spot, but guided tours can lead you there.
Sites outside the cemetery that are worth a visit include
the airy Retiro train station, built by the British in 1915,
the modern Malba art museum, featuring works from
Latin American artists, and the pink presidential palace,
Under tha palace is a national museum, although the exhibits
gloss over Argentina's seamier history of military dictatorships
and repression. (An English translation at the museum is
poorly written). A guide can point out the balcony where
Evita addressed her adoring fans.
Near Casa Rosada is the Plaza de Mayo, where every
Thursday, the Mothers of Plaza de Mayo march to demand full
government disclosure of the atrocities Argentina committed
against its own citizens in the Dirty War of the '70s and
In addition to shopping for well-discounted clothes and
leather goods, don't leave Buenos Aires until you see tango.
It hasn't lost its sultry luster since the dance's first
sensual steps in the city's bordellos 120 years ago.
You can find pairs dancing for tips by the pedestrian mall
Calle Florida or in the touristy La Boca section.
But the best places to see the real thing, in all its passion
and lust and heartbreak are in the dinner theaters - especially
the noted Bar Sur in the San Telmo neighborhood.
Shows there begin at 8 p.m. and don't end until after 2
a.m. (You're not obliged to stay the whole time.) After
the dancers finish, they likely will grab a guest from the
audience for an awkward spin on the floor, as they did with
We sought another prized product in Argentina - steak -
for most dinners, and I wound up eating more meat in six
days than I usually do in six months (and at hours when
Americans are usually past dessert - about 11 p.m., when
dinner here often is just starting).
Steak in Argentina is on another level. The cows' grass
diet gives the meat an earthy, silky taste, and the spices
rubbed into the sizzling beef are luscious.
Steak is often paired with Malbec, the national wine, and
dinner is topped off with a dense flan drizzled with dulce
Parillas - barbecue houses - are everywhere, but
Desnivel, also in the San Telmo section, shouldn't be missed.
(Apropos of food on another level, Desnivel actually means
Fed in a dingy, split-level room that booms with crashing
plates and drunken laughter, patrons don't soon forget their
meals at Desnivel, even if they tank up on more wine than
they should. The waiters are surly but oddly charming. Meals
there shouldn't run more than $15 a person, wine included.
We returned for dinner twice.
Perhaps Hernán, our taxi driver, might want to add
steak dinners there as another thing that makes Buenos Aires
a place to love.
FRUGAL TRAVELER; In Buenos Aires,
Late Nights and (Very) Low Prices
By DAISANN McLANE
''IN Buenos Aires these days, everyone is having problems
sleeping,'' said my Argentine friend César as we
strolled down a street in Palermo Viejo and Soho, the neighborhood
of shops, bars and restaurants known locally as the SoHo
of Buenos Aires. It was around 3:30 a.m. on a weekend,
cool enough for a leather jacket, but the sidewalks were
alive with people still reluctant to call it a night, looking
for another bar, another sidewalk cafe, in which to linger.
I live in New York, where I'm usually in bed by 11. At 11
you'll be lucky to get a reservation in a Buenos Aires restaurant.
I didn't expect that I would adapt to the city's famously
late hours when I first arrived there for a stay of about
a week in April. Soon, however, I found myself enthusiastically
ordering grilled lomo (tenderloin) and morcilla (blood sausage)
at midnight -- certainly not conducive to a good night's
But that's not the kind of insomnia César was talking
about. I'd asked him how things were going since the Argentine
currency crash of March 2002, when the peso was devalued
by the government and lost about two-thirds of its value
almost overnight. César shrugged, in that Buenos
Aires way, a shrug that said: Not good. And hadn't I noticed
all the ads on the Buenos Aires subway for melatonin and
Most people are still struggling, he said. Life is not what
it was: Argentines have seen their purchasing power drop
drastically. Still, on a Friday night on the town, you wouldn't
guess it. At around 8:30 in the evening, along the brightly
lighted Avenida Corrientes (Buenos Aires's Broadway),
the pretheater crowds buzz with anticipation, thronging
the entrances to opulent old Art Deco theaters like the
Buenos Aires's theater row vies with Madrid's to present
the top musicians, actors, dancers and orchestras in the
Latin world; many come here just for the theater. (César
and I went to see the Argentine dancer Maximiliano Guerra,
a muscular and handsome international ballet star, perform
an extraordinary program of ballet, tango and rock 'n' roll
composed by the Argentine rock icon Charly
After the ballet, it was off to the Club del Vino,
a chic cabaret theater and wine bar, where the audience
-- another packed house -- quickly succumbed to a comedy
troupe's affectionate parody of a Latin lounge-lizard act.
The laughter and fine wine flowed, and by the end of the
show the audience was on its feet dancing giddily to ''La
Maybe the residents of Buenos Aires, the porteños,
were tossing and turning, but they also seemed determined
to keep their spirits up, and enjoy their fabulous city.
The flip side of Argentina's economic pain is that the United
States dollar goes a long way. Just about everything in
Argentina -- from hotel rooms to fine restaurants to local
transportation -- costs about two-thirds less than it would
in the United States. The five-star luxury hotel is $100
to $175, the two- or three-star hotel $25; the best seat
at the show on Avenida Corrientes is $20, the bottle of
exquisite Argentine wine $6.50. (And, for those who want
to be more than tourists in Buenos Aires, a modest pied-à-terre
in a gorgeous classic 19th-century building sells for around
The inequality of this pricked at my conscience, but tourist
dollars, I knew, would help the local economy. ''Turismo
Es Trabajo'' (''Tourism Means Jobs'') is the slogan
on a public-service ad repeated over and over on Argentine
TV. The people I met were unfailingly friendly and helpful
to a stranger in town. For instance, a cabdriver parked
by my hotel and walked me inside to the desk to make sure
I'd be O.K. Crime is reportedly on the rise, but I exercised
caution and felt more at ease than I have in some other
Latin American cities. And although I saw plenty of broken
sidewalks and streetlights, reminiscent of New York during
its 1970's fiscal crisis, I also saw encouraging signs of
the city's revival, especially in the area of Palermo Viejo
and Soho, where I began my stay.
Palermo Viejo and Soho is probably the best known of the
new hip enclaves in Buenos Aires. Once a suburb of
downtown (it is about 10 minutes by cab and 20 minutes by
subway from the Obelisco, the tall Egyptian-style needle
that marks the city's center), its rows of two- and three-story
early 20th-century houses, many with rococo facades, languished
in the 80's. Now they are being renovated, one by one, by
young entrepreneurs. Boutiques that sell handmade shoes,
designer home accessories or one-of-a-kind evening dresses
elbow for space beside new restaurants, clubs and bars.
The neighborhood boundaries have expanded there is now a
Palermo SoHo and a Palermo
Hollywood, a district of thriving film and television
Checking the Internet to find a place to stay in the district,
which doesn't have any sizable hotels, I found Che Lulu
Guest House, in a narrow cobblestoned lane near the edge
of the SoHo side of Palermo that has recently been renovated
by a collective of artists as a B&B. Welcomed into the
spacious common living room by a stylish young innkeeper
and the throb of ambient music, I settled into my little
room upstairs. It didn't have a bathroom (I shared one on
the hall with another room). And with a renovation going
on next door it was a bit noisy during the day, but it was
sunny and pleasant. At breakfast, included in the $25-a-night
price, I drank coffee and ate sugary-sweet Argentine croissants,
medialunas, while sharing stories with tourists from England
Although Palermo Viejo and Soho is in the midst of a transformation,
it is still a working-class neighborhood, where fruit markets,
schools and social clubs provide a solid contrast to the
trendiness. So it's a terrific place to stroll. At the edge
of Palermo Hollywood is a superb covered flea market (Mercado
de las Pulgas) filled with the forgotten treasures of Argentine
middle- and upper-class households -- row upon row of Italianate
dining sets, tables piled with antique silver and, in one
stall, a ceiling hung with Venetian glass chandeliers (I
bought one, for $60).
Lunch in this neighborhood is an incredible value. At cool,
minimalist Central, after my flea market run, I settled
back into a seat on a white couch, and enjoyed a glass of
sauvignon blanc with delicious ravioli in a mushroom sauce,
organic salad and dessert for about $10. Lunch at Ristorante
O was even better. There, each course was a well-thought-out
combination of fresh local ingredients and European cooking
techniques especially the risotto, delicately prepared but
rich with the musky flavor of local mushrooms. I asked to
see the chef so I could compliment him and discovered he
was American, and had started his career at Charlie Trotter's.
Oh, and lunch, with appetizer, main course, dessert, wine
and coffee, also came to $10.
Despite its pleasures, Palermo Viejo and Soho is a bit out
of the way, and I wanted to spend some time downtown, so
after two nights I moved to a hotel I had stayed in on a
previous trip, the Broadway All Suites on the Avenida Corrientes.
My room there was large, with a kitchenette and sitting
room, and the location was convenient, but I was getting
used to the Argentine way of looking at prices, and $65
(plus tax) began to feel like too much money. César
told me about a new hotel downtown, the Ibis, which was
offering a deal for $25. I was a little dubious, since I'd
checked out some hotels of this French budget chain in Europe
and wasn't impressed. But my friend was right -- it was
great, and brand new, with an enthusiastic staff. I booked
a small, quiet room with a big bed covered with a turquoise
bedspread and Ikea-style furniture. For another $2, I had
breakfast in the lobby cafeteria, alongside lots of Brazilians.
I had hit many of the key sights in Buenos Aires on an earlier
trip, but some drew me back for a second round, like the
moody Recoleta Cemetery, filled with gargantuan granite
and marble monuments topped with cherubim and seraphim.
I also returned to the Museo de Arte
Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires, or Malba, which opened
in 2001, a world-class museum of Latin American painting
and sculpture; its exhibitions of works by Diego Rivera
and painters like Roberto Matta and Wilfredo Lam as well
as a host of modern Uruguayans and Argentines, are on rotation.
The Plaza Dorrego street fair, on Sundays in San
Telmo, is a tourist parade, but still irresistible. How
can you not love spending an afternoon meandering along
cobblestoned streets, listening to jazz bands and watching
septuagenarians in Borsalino hats dance the tango?
ABOUT the tango. It is,
of course, a symbol of Buenos Aires, probably the city's
best-known export, and often invoked as a metaphor for the
culture. There are dozens of clubs offering tango shows,
places where you can watch or participate, afternoon, evening
and night, in milongas, or tango dances. (My favorite is
upstairs at the historic Confitería Ideal, in the
magnificent ballroom of mirrors and columns used as a location
in Sally Potter's film ''The Tango Lesson.'') There is even
a 24-hour cable channel, ''Solo Tango.'' I don't know how
to tango, but on my first visit to Buenos Aires, I had thrown
myself into the scene, spending hours watching dancers swirl
and swoop, fending off passes (''I am the tango teacher
give me a little kiss'') from tango Lotharios.
This time, though, I wasn't in a tango mood. For it seemed
to me the real action in Buenos Aires now wasn't the stagey,
mannered passion of the tango floor but rather the everyday
struggle to keep going through difficult times. So I skipped
dancing, and instead I walked the leafy streets so reminiscent
of Madrid or Paris, where the building facades were studded
with placards that said ''Se Vende,'' For Sale. I stopped
-- Buenos Aires has an abundance of them, and they stay
open late. In one, I found myself standing for an hour,
conversing with the owner about politics, economics, Che
Guevara and the movies. As citizens of two complex big cities
that have experienced ups and downs, we soon found common
''I love New York,'' the bookseller said as I departed.
''Say hello to Woody Allen for me.''
I promised I would. Then I headed off to meet a friend,
to share steaks, wine, conversation and another Buenos Aires
The bottom line
I spent about $64.87 a day on food, lodging, activities
and local transportation during eight days and nights, at
2.85 Argentine pesos to $1.
Using the United Airlines Web site (www.ual.com), I found
a discounted round trip ticket from New York to Buenos Aires
with a connection in Dulles International Airport near Washington
for $572.50, with tax.
Che Lulu Guest House, Emilio Zolá 5185, (54-11) 4772
0289, www.luluguesthouse.com, was a good bohemian base from
which to explore the up-and-coming neighborhood of Palermo
Viejo and Soho. My room with double bed didn't have a bath
(a shared shower and toilet was next door) but was clean
and comfortable.Breakfast was served at a long table in
the dining room (croissants, coffee, juice, cereal). One
night, with 21 percent tax and breakfast, was $25.
Rooms at the recently opened Hotel Ibis, part of the French
Accor chain, Hipólito Yrigoyen 1592, (54-11) 5300
5555, www.ibishotel.com, are small but intelligently designed,
and the staff was extremely friendly and helpful. The Ibis,
downtown on the leafy Plaza Congreso, is a terrific deal
at $25 a night. The price includes tax but not breakfast
The Broadway All Suites, well situated in the theater district,
Avenida Corrientes 1173, (54-11) 4378 9300, www.broadway-suites.com.ar,
has more space (each of the modern-style beige-on-white
rooms has a sitting room and kitchenette), and more style,
at a higher price: $73 a night, with tax and buffet breakfast.
At Ristorante O, Thames 1626, (54-11) 4833 6991, the set
lunches are an astonishing value at around $4 for three
courses; dinner, with wine, is around $25 for one.
At La Vinería, Salta 490, (54-11) 4381 2920, in Montserrat,
between San Telmo and Congreso, a typical neighborhood grill,
or parrilla, a dinner of grilled lomo (tenderloin) and mejillones
(sweetbreads) plus a bottle of malbec was $12 a person.
At Chiquilín, Sarmiento 1599, (54-11) 4373 5163,
in the downtown theater district off Corrientes, a well-known
establishment that used to be the haunt of famous tango
singers and composers, lunch for two, with a bottle of wine,
was about $15.
Central, Costa Rica 5644, (54-11) 4776 7374, is another
excellent place for a bargain set lunch; a three- course
meal of mesclun salad, fresh pasta and dessert at this sleek,
modern restaurant (at night it turns into a hip cocktail
lounge) is $5.
The Club del Vino in Palermo Viejo and Soho, Cabrera
4737, (54-11) 4833 0048, is a wine bar and performance space
with jazz to tango revues to cabaret. Admission varies (the
show I attended was $5.25); the schedule can be found in
the ''Espectáculos'' sections of the daily Buenos
Aires papers, La Nación (www.lanacion.com.ar) and
Clarín (www.clarin.com), which provide an excellent
rundown of the theater and music scene.
The Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires,
Avenida Figueroa Alcorta 3415, (54-11) 4808 6500, www.malba.org.ar,
is open from noon to 8 p.m. daily (9 p.m. Wednesday, when
it is free); closed Tuesdays. Admission is about $1.75.
At Confitería Ideal, Suipacha 384, a large, somewhat
faded old Buenos Aires cafe, there are daily tango lessons
and dances; the schedule is posted on a large sign just
inside the cafe.
Correction: June 27, 2005, Sunday A listing of restaurants
and lodgings with the Frugal Traveler column on June 20,
about Buenos Aires, misstated the Spanish word for sweetbreads.
It is ''mollejas'' (''mejillones'' means shrimp).
Correction: July 11, 2005, Sunday A listing of restaurants
and lodgings with the Frugal Traveler column on June 20,
about Buenos Aires, misstated the Spanish word for sweetbreads.
And a correction in this space on June 27 gave an incorrect
translation for the word that had been used erroneously.
Sweetbreads are mollejas. Mejillones, the word that appeared
mistakenly, means mussels, not shrimp.